"Soaring Stuff" 1/6 P-limited Crackerbox Kit.

[hydronut]

We have built a couple of prototype hulls and Taylor has made a few changes that were needed. The kit is just about ready to go, so I will be doing a build thread of the new Racing Crackerbox Hull kit. Here is some information on the kit and "Soaring stuff. http://www.soaringstuff.com/crackerbox.html
Here are a few photos of one of the prototypes . This is about what the finished hull kit builds. I have freelanced the scoop, this area can be done in any style as the builder desires, I may do an exposed engine on this build. I have a plan LOL.

[tcgliderguy]

I've got all of the detailed parts cut for the first run of kits, and will be cutting the hull sheeting and deck sheeting tomorrow. I just completed the instruction manual, and am going to post it for anyone to download from the Soaring Stuff website. I should have that done tomorrow morning. If you're interested or curious about the kit.... download the PDF file of the 8 page instruction manual. It is packed with photos and drawings, and will show you how really easily the kit goes together.

-Taylor

[tcgliderguy]

The first run of kits are ready to be packaged and shipped. If you contacted us about a pre-order, you should receive an e-mail shortly, letting you know that you can order the 1/6 Crackerbox kits online.

If you didn't sign up for that pre-order process, you can still get in on the early $65.00 kit price... but it won't stay long.

If you are curious about the kit, you can download the entire 8 page PDF file for the instruction manual (This is free... with no obligation).

All of the information is at www.soaringstuff.com/crackerbox.html

-Taylor

[hydronut]

Great job Taylor, This is a nice kit.

[JimClark]

Got no money but man this is tempting

[tcgliderguy]

The initial batch of kits are shipping today..... !!!

-Taylor

[hydronut]

Sweet!!!

[john p gross]

thank you taylor-- your c/b kits (2) are real nice! upon opening the boxs i found 3 pieces that were broken (deck parts). you were told about this by my son who ordered them. no problem-you sent new parts-asap-and i think it should be known by everybody. thanks and we hope your venture takes off as it should.---------correction,just opened the box i recieved---boat stands,i didn't even know about are here,again thanks taylor. one question-what are the 6 pieces of balsa for? are they for the kits!

[hydronut]

It is a very nice kit, I will start the build thread this week, I had a couple projects to get caught up with and am just about ready to go with The Soaring Stuff Cracker!! Looks very good. Thanks Taylor.

[JimClark]

tcgliderguy
Are the kits going to be available later also or is this just a one time offering?
Jim

[Flyguy55]

The kits will be available for as long as they sell.
I don't know how long the intro price will last. I'm sure TC will answer that . It is a nice kits , mine is framed up , ready to be skinned .

[hydronut]

I had a couple of projects that needed to get some progress done, One has been finished and the second is at the slow drying phase. So I am going to begin on the "Soaring Stuff" Cracker box. Taylor has done a very nice job getting everything correct on the parts. The first thing I did was to check the parts inventory supplied and read all the directions. We have everything needed to build a P-limited crackerbox hull. The first thing is to get the building board ready to build the hull. Taylor has supplied the anchor blocks in the kit that will need to be placed on a very straight, flat building board. The instuctions recomend a shelf type board that you can get at most home improvement centers, you can also use any straight flat 1X that is the correct width as well. You will also need your building supplies. Here is a list of what I prefer to use.

X-acto knife and a supply of #11 blades
X-Acto type Razor Saw
Sanding Blocks long and hand size
Sandpaper. 80, 120, 180 grits. (Finer grits are used in the paint process)
Dremmel tool with sanding and shaping heads
30 minute epoxy
Thin CA
Medium CA
Small Block or hand plane
Straight edge or T-square
90 Degree square
Clamps
Masking Tape
I think that will get us the hull built. Time to get the building jig ready and start the Cracker box. Here is a photo of the kit inventory. I also received a very nice set of stand end plates that I think are optional, you can ask Taylor when you order your kit.

[tcgliderguy]

Yes..... the kits will be available on an on-going basis. We had some issues with the "U.S. Destruction Service". They managed to crush their own triangular mailing tubes. We got alll of the damaged parts replaced, and located a source for flat boxes that should solve the problem. Also, we'll be shipping by FedEx Ground service from now on. It's a bit more expensive than the Postal service.... but getting your kit in one piece (or at least the correct number of pieces) is more important.

Oh yes... the 1/2" square balsa sticks that are provided are to go around the hatch area. They provide some support surface for the 1/32" ply hatch decking. The decking is designed to over-hang just slightly. It "keys" the hatch into exact position, so that it can be taped down... providing a waterproof seal.

-Taylor

[hydronut]

Time to get to building our Crackerbox. The first thing you want to do is read the directions and get fimiliar with the parts placement. Next is to locate all of the parts make sure they are presant, Now I sanded the parts to remove any left behind fuzz from the cutting process of the parts, I then test fit the correct pieces into thier matching notches clean and sand as needed to get a good fit that is snug but not overly tight, as you don't want to have to force the parts in place and risk breaking something. Now I have finished the building board jig as per the instuctions, I had a very nice 1 X 10 on hand that I had milled at a local cabinet shop, it is very straight and perfectly flat so this is what I used for the jig. I glued the blocks in place and left it to dry over night. Now I'll do a dry run of the basic hull parts, I started at the transome following the directions I clamped all of the pieces together on the jig, small spring clamps and masking tape are perfect to do this. Check for fit and alignment now before gluing if you need to adjust things it is easier at this time rather then after gluing the parts in place. I found the support notch on the center keel did not quite come back far enough to meet at bulkhead #3 so I added 3/16 inch shims to the jig blocks to move bulkheads 1 & 2 back towards the transome this allowed everything to line up almost perfectly. Everythig has been located, fit and alignment is good. Here are some photos.

[hydronut]

Once every thing was clamped and fit together I decided to do a few things that I think will be a plus once finished. I removed a little of the wood from the bulkhead centers. This is not at all needed to complete the crackerbox. I did this to shave a little weight and to make COG adjustments and electronic placement easier. I reclamped the parts to the jig and began building the forward keel spine support. I aligned one of the doublers to the center section of the support marked it then glued and clamped it together. Once dry, I added the second doubler to the opposite side of the center section allowing it to dry. When dry, I sanded the assembly to the correct shape and also so sanded the bottom edges to the same angle as the bulkhead bottoms. Checking fit and shape with the bulkhead placement. I sanded the nose area of the spine to a point shape.

[hydronut]

Once I had the keel brace in place I could see a possible problem I may encounter with the motor mount I plan to use, The rear keel spine may sit to high for my mount as It could cause me a problem. The supplied rear spine support will work fine but I want to do some testing with an outrunner and the mount needs to sit very low in the hull I could have removed some of the support later but thought best to plan ahead a bit. I decided to make a laydown rear keel support section from 2 pieces of 1/8 X 1/2 spruce. this means that bulkheads 4,5 and the transome needed to be modifyed to accept the change, I filled the precut spine notches of those parts with 1/8 spruce and reenforce them with 1/8 plywood glued to the bulkheads between the center 2 batton notches, I then cut new slots to accept the new spruce supports. I then trimmed the forward keel spine leaving it 1/2 inch to the rear of bulkhead #3.

[hydronut]

Now that I have made a couple of changes and everthing fits well, it's time to start gluing. Gluing 1 side at a time the, first thing is to get a good line up of the deck formers and the transome, also line up the same deck former at the notch of bulhead #2. Tack glue the deck former to the transome and bulkhead #2. Reapt the same process to the opposite side. Allow to dry, When dry, using a straight edge. check and line up bulkheads 3,4,and 5 with the transome, when you get them lined up tack glue bulkheads 3,4 &5 to the deck formers. Now tack the forward keel spine in place, once dry I added the rear keel spine support at this point and glued it in place.

[Don Wollard]

Looks GREAT, Rod! Nice looking kit.

[DJ Campbell]

Originally Posted by tcgliderguy

Yes..... the kits will be available on an on-going basis. We had some issues with the "U.S. Destruction Service". They managed to crush their own triangular mailing tubes. We got alll of the damaged parts replaced, and located a source for flat boxes that should solve the problem. Also, we'll be shipping by FedEx Ground service from now on. It's a bit more expensive than the Postal service.... but getting your kit in one piece (or at least the correct number of pieces) is more important.

Oh yes... the 1/2" square balsa sticks that are provided are to go around the hatch area. They provide some support surface for the 1/32" ply hatch decking. The decking is designed to over-hang just slightly. It "keys" the hatch into exact position, so that it can be taped down... providing a waterproof seal.

-Taylor

Good idea on the flat boxes. Also I suggest secure tape all around and/or bag the parts inside. Mine arrived uncrushed but when I picked the box up, 2 parts fell out. I would say there was not enough tape at the ends of the box as opposed to a USPS problem. I use them all the time but I always label as fragile. It does seem to help in the Postal Service Case. UPS in my opinion is a disaster for typically twice the shiping costs. Fedex may be the good choice.

All in all this is fine kit-alot for the money!

[hydronut]

It time to install the battons and chines, 1st check each notch in the bulkheads and transome for a good fit of the spruce strips used for the battons. Check the fit of each notch I used an x-acto knife to open them a bit to get a good fit but keeping them snug in the slot. You can also sand the notches to get a good fit. Glue and clamp each batton in to the bulkhead at each notch, I left the strips long and cut the excess once the batton had dried in place. Add all four battons at this time. Next I added the chines fitting them in the same fashion as the battons a good fit means less sanding, I Began at the nose and worked toward the rear or transome leaving the excess and trimming it once dry.